Being equipped with the right tools will help you be prepared for anything throughout the electrical switch wiring process. They could include a multimeter, a non-contact voltage metal detector (tests the warmth of wire without touching it) and a blend sheath and wire male stripper. Like any other DO-IT-YOURSELF job, you want to be sure to have the right tools to do the job. Ĭant be any more specific without knowing model number of the mower so we can look up the schematic and the actual switch make & number.MUST-KNOW TIPS FOR DIY ELECTRICAL WIRING AND CHANGING 1. On some switches with metal bodies that go into metal on the mower the ground wire is not ground to the switch but takes ground from the switch body. Once happy put the terminals back into the plug and refit the switch. Hook the kill wire up & fire up the engine. Remove the kill wire from the coil and hook up a meter, test light whatever floats our boat to check that it never gets voltage at any key position Hook them direct to the switch where you think they should go 040" feeler to depress the barbs so you can pull the terminals out of the plug On the back of the switch will be letters like shown hereīattery Ground Magneto Start Alternator Lights On top of that you are suffering the calculator disease reading numbers that are most likely wrong and thinking they mean something 1.5mb?īelow is the link to the parts lookup with all the mower info and wiring harness diagram. I would attach some pics but no matter what I do it keeps saying the file size is too large. Proir to this, I don't believe there were any starting issues like this, but it sat for quiet awhile and wasn't used much. Separate prong unplugged in crank position: 1.2ohmsĭoes this sound like it's a defective switch that I got? It is a 7 prong switch. Key in run position with lights on: 1.2ohms Key in off position: 0.2 ohms (Normal ground reading) When I do a continuity test with one test lead on the battery ground, and the other on the backside of the prong that goes to the ignition coil I get these readings. From what I can see for those two black wires on the prong are that one wire goes to the lights, and the other is just a ground that goes to the body. The lights and charging system still work fine when that prong is unplugged. (Like the coil isn't getting a good ground to kill the spark). If I keep this prong unplugged and turn it off it will sputter and spit then die out. Now when I unplug a separate prong from that back of the switch that has 2 black wires crimped into 1 pin it will get a spark when cranking and run fine. Everything else works fine, lights, charging system, safety switches etc. The problem I'm having is when I crank it, it cranks over fine but I don't get a spark until I let off the crank position and the spark comes back and it will fire. So it sat under a tarp for about 3 months until they decided they wanted me to fix it up. I put a new ignition switch in it but I never got around to testing it because the battery was dead and it was at a family members house. Water got into the original switch and caused it to lock up. It has a Briggs and Stratton engine on it. Well, to try and make a long story a little shorter I have a Murray riding mower from 2003.
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